This has been a long time coming — we took this trip back in September 2016! But, as they say, it’s here now — for posterity, if nothing else.
This small beach town, located on Estonia’s southern coast, is windswept even in the summer. if you’re looking for crystal clear, warm waters to swim in, go to the Caribbean. Like most European beaches, the water here is freezing in August. Bonus: we arrived on a cool, rainy day unworthy of inspiring beach confidence, but odds are slim of a relaxing dip even on a sweltering Estonian day. The good thing going for our particular hotel (Rannus Hotel) was the long stretch of waist-deep water almost half a kilometre in from shore. Much fun for kids without parents’ fear of losing them to the cavernous ocean.
The town itself has a laid-back feel to it, and we were lucky to arrive on the day of the town festival, a carnival like atmosphere brimming with festivities. We seemed to be a peculiar sight in this small town, though. Many a backward glances, curious stares, maybe even suspicious sideeyes thrown our way. Maybe the locals aren’t used to tourists and are wary of any strangers? It did seem to not have any racial diversity from what we could make out — made for some definitel discomfort on our part, unfortunately. Our trying to decipher whether a burger offered by a street vendor was vegetarian by looking up its toppings on Google Translate probably didn’t help matters.
On to Tallin.
The capital of Estonia, about 2 hours’ drive north of Parnu, Tallinn’s old town is a beautiful medieval area quite authentically preserved, Wrapped around a vibrant square, populated by quaint little souvenir shops bored into ancient walls, the old town is a tourist’s delight. Amble about leisurely amidst period clapboard neighbourhoods, stop to admire the knit market, have the kids run around in plenty of dotted green spaces; Tallinn is a pleasant 2-day stay with a free, bohemian feel to it.
Contrary to my earlier perception, Estonia is still largely rural. And flat. The 4-hour drive from Tallinn to Sigulda is a study n stretches of redwood forests, flatlands and isolated homesteads. No stark vistas like Iceland or stunning scenery like Norway, but it has its quiet charm. Also, even roadside/gas station coffee is good!
Nothing much to do in Sigulda itself, but the Tarzan Adventure Park is great if travelling with kiddos. It’s mostly empty off-season and has amazing ziplines, challenging obstacle courses, archery etc, easily a half- to full-day fun. We, again, arrived on a rainy morning but at least it was staffed and our two had the run of the place.
What a bustling city Riga is. It feels like a young Milan or a bubbly Paris, without the baggage. Hip metrosexuals haunt its pubs and cafes; smart, young parents take their snazzily-dressed kids out to play in the day and then haunt those pubs themselves come evening. The best decision we made was the rent bike for the day and just cycle the city, taking in its sights and stopping wherever the mood struck. Even my usually moody and travel-jaded kids loved it and still talk about our “bike-trip Riga” trip.
Dining-wise, even though we couldn’t sample much of the meat-heavy local cuisine, pizzerias and cafes that serve delicious bread and coffee abound, so being vegetarian in this region is really no problem. Big cities like Tallinn and Riga have quite a lot of ethnic options as well such as Indian, Thai etc.